What to do with my family in Paris this summer?

I'm getting excited about my trip to Paris this summer. I've got the flight booked and the apartment deposit paid. I'm still deciding if we should use public transportation to our residence or just hire someone to meet us at the airport - which was so nice when we did it last time!

But I'm now starting to drive my family crazy with the question: What do you want to do on our Paris trip?? I'm not surprised with the blank stare my 11 year old gives me as she was 9 when we were there last and was more or less along for the ride. But I'm hoping to get her more involved with choosing the attractions in Paris to visit.

So far, the very preliminary list looks like this:

1. The Eiffel Tower. It's usually not high on my list since the lines seem so overwhelming to me which puts the sky scraper Montparnasse at the top of my list for amazing views of Paris. But I've learned from RICK STEVES' PARIS that you can reserve tickets ahead of time and jump the line with no guilt, at least for the first two levels. Yea, so now I'm psyched. After all, I think it's been about 38 years since I've been up there.
2. The Rodin Museum. Although I'd already thought it would be a good choice because it is small and has tangible things to see, my recent viewing of Midnight in Paris clinched it. I feel kind of silly that I'd never been there, especially since it was about a 15 min. walk from where I lived in the 7th arrondissement. It's also one of the listed sites from my beloved guide book  AROUND PARIS WITH KIDS - 3rd edition.
3. Sainte-Chappelle. This is the just-right-sized chapel of King Louis IX. It was built in the early 13th century. Since Megan has a new-found love for this time period which matches my long-time love for it, this should be a great place to visit. Once again, I haven't been there in 38 years!

So, this is all I have so far. The thing I learned from my trip with my older daughter when she was 11 yrs old was that it is amazing to discover your favorite city from the eyes of someone else. Planning trips to Paris with children means recapturing your casual, fun, wandering, child-like nature and putting away the museum, historical, scheduled grown-up tourist that can overtake us when visiting such a significant city like Paris.

Book Review: Fodor's Around Paris With Kids - 3rd Edition

As you can imagine, I have many travel guide books for Paris. Two years ago, I bought AROUND PARIS WITH KIDS - 3rd edition (there is now a 4th edition) in anticipation of visiting Paris with my 15 and 9 year olds.

The book is short and sweet (and small) which makes it easy to read the whole thing completely and  easy to carry in your backpack once you get to Paris. AROUND PARIS WITH KIDS covers 68 things you can do with your kids that you both will enjoy. The list includes everything from the Eiffel Tower to the Rodin Museum to the Aquaboulevard!

What I especially appreciated was that with each item in the list, there were helpful hints on how to enjoy it best with your kids. It included hints about eating, making the most of your time, and things to keep in mind (like best times to visit with kids, the hours, rules, etc.)

I loved the parental humor in the book. I also really appreciated the good information about saving money, getting around and resources for more information.

My only criticism was the lack of pictures. With no pictures, it was hard for my kids to stay interested when I tried to get them excited and help plan our visit. But it's a small problem and if you have other guide books, you can easily cross reference or just do your parental best!

No matter how many times you've enjoyed Paris as an adult, it's a totally different experience when you look at if from your children's eyes! I found it exciting to "have the excuse" to see things that the adult me wouldn't have made time for.

We ended up having a great time, sadly missing so much due to our schedule. But I'm using this book now to help plan for my trip this summer with my, now, 11 yr old!

I definitely recommend AROUND PARIS WITH KIDS!

Joyeux Pâques to my friends and family in France!

Just thinking of Easter. In 1993, my husband and I were in Paris just before Easter and were so impressed with the amazing window displays of molded Easter chocolates. We couldn't leave the city with out buying some small molds from E.Dehillerin.

Since these photos were taken pre-digital, I've spent all morning scanning the 35mm slides from the entire trip!

Traveling Europe with Rick Steves - 1986 Style

I ran across a photo of me reading Rick Steve's EUROPE THROUGH THE BACK DOOR before leaving on my big journey in 1986.

After graduation from college, I grabbed an L.L. Bean pack frame, an open ended ticket to Belgium (good for a year - I did manage to stay just short of 2 days on my plane ticket), my two month Eurail Pass and $800 and my best friend.

Really, I had no clue what I was doing. I'd been to Europe with family but had never headed out on my own. Plus, I was the tour guide for my friend!

Europe in 1986 was really different than now. The wall was not down yet. Everyone had their own currencies, meaning you lost money every time you crossed the border. We used Traveler's Checks (I know, what are those, right?), no internet, no cell phones. We actually hand wrote letters and post cards and plugged coins into the strange pay phones with robotic speed so our mom's didn't think we'd been kidnapped.

I think the most important thing I learned from this book (actually an earlier version with the same cover) was about spending the night on the train. There were plenty of times I ran out of money (I think our budget was $30/day) and so Rick taught us to find a train going to a destination far enough away that we could sleep on the train over night. The idea was to get on a train that was starting from your city (so the train wouldn't be full), dash on and find an empty seating compartment (you can't find these any more). Then close the compartment doors, slide the seats into their down position which would make the entire compartment one big bed. You'd throw your sleeping bags out and all the rest of your stuff and "Occupy" the space. If you were lucky, you'd sleep pretty well until early in the morning when the train would be so full that people would need you to convert your bedroom back into seats. My friend never went over her budget, but I often did and so we did this exercise often!

So, just in case you ever see this Rick Steves - Just want you to know I'm your biggest fan and still travel with you as often as possible, only without the backpack now.

His newer versions of this book are also available, and are much thicker than my original!

Travel Guide LET'S GO PARIS - Review

I just received my new copy of LET'S GO BUDGET PARIS. I was pretty excited since the LET'S GO series had been my best friend in the past. In 1986, LET'S GO EUROPE got me all around Europe with my backpack and Eurail. In 1992, I scored a hotel room for me and my husband for $35/night using the LET'S GO FRANCE. But it's been a while since I bought a current edition.

So I dug into this one last night. I was really shocked at how skimpy it was - actually read most of it in an hour. I suppose, in internet era, there's lots of information to be had in other ways. So this guide didn't need to have every little detail in writing. 

Things I liked: 

• It made me feel 22 again! And of course, this series is really written for the student crowd.
• If you're young (or young at heart,) you'll find the latest and hippest places to hang out.
• The book was skimpy, but this meant it wasn't overwhelming. It made Paris seem like an easy place to hang out and have fun. And I certainly agree with that!
• Since eating out can really eat into your budget, there are some great suggestions for inexpensive meals. 
• There were some great bargain places to stay including hostels and hotels. Just be warned, there are age limits on the hostels and the hotels are not luxurious, but fantastic for price and other funky qualities. I was happy to see a really hip hotel I visited in 1987 that's still listed!
• It didn't get all hung up on the usual tourist attractions, but pointed out some quicker and sometimes more obscure attractions.

Things I didn't like:

• Let's face it - the humor was snarky. Sometimes I felt it was a bit disrespectful and demeaning. But I'll admit to a snicker here and there.
• I didn't agree with their assessment of many of the attractions. I feel that they weren't always objective and might steer you away from, what I think are, great things to do.
• The book does seem like a whirl-wind Paris party. But when I think back to my student days, I was not anywhere too long. So for people travelling around Europe, it's appropriate. If you're planning on a longer stay and are perhaps older or with your family, you should augment this with some other guides.

All in all, no matter what your age, I think this is a useful book to have in your library when researching your trip. Unless you're on an unlimited budget, you will really like the restaurants they list and perhaps find a bargain hotel.

Check out their web site too - they have good information and mobile tools too (just be sure you have a proper European phone to use it on.)

Coolness in My (Temporary) Paris Neighborhood!

I was pretty excited when my most recent copy of Budget Travel magazine had an article called: Latest Turnaround: Canal Saint-Martin, Paris. It talked about how this working class neighborhood is getting cool! As I looked at the list of the seven coolest places in the neighborhood, I realized, it was going to be MY neighborhood for two weeks this summer!

Le Pompon

There's a speakeasy called Le Pompon, located in a former synagogue, with a DJ and a smoking room - smoking is not allowed in bars any more without special permission. Locals call it vraiment cool!"  I'm not sure that I'm young enough to be that cool anymore but it does look like a fun place. But hey, I can dream!

Right next to our apartment rental (I mean right NEXT door) is a place called the Sweat Shop. You can rent a sewing machine by the hour and guest designers come and teach classes.

Chez Chiffrons

All of the other places sound cool too, but I'm looking forward to visiting the vintage clothes shop near by called Chez Chiffrons. Since the clothes seem to be retro designer clothes, I'm not sure I can afford anything. But, I'm still going to check it out. 

The other place is called Objet Céleste. It's a shop full of rice paper lanterns, mobiles, and jewelry!


So, now I know what I'll be doing in the afternoons, between afternoon cafe and late evening dinners!

Spring makes me homesick for Paris

Every year, when Spring finally settles down in Maine, I get homesick - homesick for Paris. Luckily, this summer I will be returning "home" with some of my family!

I bought my tickets and paid my deposit for the apartment that I wanted, way back in October. Then I sort of put my excitement for the trip in hibernation. Now I'm in full excitement - thinking of the possibilities and all the things we can when we get there.

One thing I've wanted to do for the last three trips was to take the barge trip down the Canal Saint-Martin. Some how, it's always fallen off the list for lack of time. But this time, I was sneaky. Our apartment is actually meters from the canal itself!

A Lock on the Canal Saint Martin, evening

Megan is only 11 and I'm not sure if the very slow barge trip will work with her. But I'm thinking that walking the canal will be even better!

Although I apparently crossed the canal on my way to a horrible job I had in the 11th (back in 1986), I was shy and walked very fast to my destination. I never even realized what I was looking at. I do remember the amazingly diverse neighborhood I walked through though - all the beautiful African ladies and their bright outfits and markets. It was one neighborhood I knew would be open and lively on Sunday as it was predominately Jewish and Muslim.

So I just can't wait to show Megan these places and retrace my steps. I used to pick up my charge

at his school and entertain him for the afternoon as my job - way back then. Now, I get to escort my own daughter and share the beauty of the city I love most - in all of it's color and diversity!